Step Inside Louis Vuitton’s New Bioclimatic Atelier

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Sustainability in fashion doesn’t only mean sourcing green materials or embracing circularity. Factories and workshops can—and should be—eco-friendly too. Which is why Louis Vuitton is reconceiving the design of its leather ateliers with environmental impact in mind. The first in this initiative is Oratoire, a 65,000-square-foot single-story bioclimatic building in the Loir-et-Cher region of central France. 

Capucines handbag by Louis Vuitton.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

 Mahjong trunk by Louis Vuitton.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Named for its neighboring woodlands, Oratoire is a model of eco-design: recycled metal for the structure; recycled cement for the flooring; Forest Stewardship Council–certified wood for the walls (to absorb machine noise); solar panels on the roof, which generate enough energy to power the building; and a new ventilation system of mini windows, with temperature-activated louvers that allow wind to circulate through the space without blowing papers off desks. The wind’s temperature is cooled by a network of rain-fed ponds and reservoirs that also nurture local biodiversity.

Charlie sneaker boot, made from 90 percent recycled and bio-sourced materials.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

The new LV Trainer, made from 90 percent recycled and bio-sourced materials.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

As in villas of ancient Rome, the subflooring has pipes that circulate water to heat the building in the winter and cool it in the summer. A bank of 20-foot-tall windows faces north, bathing the workshop with diffused natural light; the southern (and therefore warmer) façade has fewer and smaller windows, and is shaded by trees. The goal of the company’s in-house architecture team was to maintain a comfortable temperature throughout the building—not easy, since sewing machines generate heat—by using natural cooling methods rather than air-conditioning, which is environmentally problematic on a host of levels, including energy consumption and fluorocarbon emissions. As a result, Oratoire’s energy usage is half that of existing Louis Vuitton ateliers. “Modular and agile, the atelier Oratoire is the image of our new generation of workshops,” Louis Vuitton chairman and CEO Michael Burke said at the ribbon-cutting.

Overhangs and slim windows limit the sun’s impact on the building’s temperature.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Leather goods mid-construction.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Diffuse natural lighting floods the workshop thanks to north-facing window walls.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

It is also a cornerstone for Our Committed Journey, Louis Vuitton’s program to improve its environmental performance and reduce its carbon footprint by embracing circular creativity on every front. In the 168 years since it was founded, Louis Vuitton has produced quality leather goods that last for generations. Now the company is applying that same ethos to everything from fashion shows to boutique design. At the Met Gala in New York City in May, Louis Vuitton dressed several guests in vintage archival pieces, thereby encouraging re-wear (an easy circular practice) on the red carpet. For years, the company has incorporated certified eco-practices, such as renewable energy and LED lighting, in its store designs. By 2025, Louis Vuitton has pledged to reuse or recycle all event and store-window materials, and rely solely on renewable energy in its production and logistics sites.

Party trunk by Louis Vuitton.

Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Following Oratoire’s lead, two more Louis Vuitton bioclimatic workshops are due to open in France this year— one of them in the Drôme, a southern region known for toasty summers, where the design team must harness and tame the fierce mistral wind. Should Oratoire’s natural air-cooling systems prove themselves to be efficient, Louis Vuitton will re-create them here and in the brand’s other future workshops. Atelier Oratoire, LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault told the crowd at the inauguration, reflects the commitment “we are making for the development of our activities in a sustainable manner” and “our respect for our environment.” louisvuitton.com

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