Artist Dahye Jeong Is Reviving Korean Craft Tradition With Woven-Horsehair Works

In Joseon-era Korea, a man of good social standing would have worn his hair in a topknot with a manggeon headband and a close-fitting tanggeon hat, both made of durable yet flexible horsehair. But after sweeping reforms prohibited that coiffure in the late 19th century, the artistry used to realize those accessories was nearly lost. Today, South Korean artist Dahye Jeong is reviving the tradition in ethereal woven-horsehair works, one of which was recently awarded the prestigious Loewe Foundation Craft Prize. “I am interested in the elasticity, strength, and three-dimensional effect the material gives,” says Jeong, who is based in Jeju, a volcanic island known for its native horses. (It’s one of just two locations in Korea where artisans still work with the medium.) Jeong, who studied sculpture at Jeju National University, began exploring the art form while getting her master’s at the Korea National University of Cultural Heritage. After observing examples at museums, she tried her hand at weaving the hair with small needles around a wooden mold— first interpreting historical precedents like fans and sleeves before braving contemporary twists. It was the process of making one hanging mobile, for instance, that gave her the idea for A Time of Sincerity, the shimmering vessel (two months in the making) that wowed the Loewe jury. “Korea has a long history of traditional craft,” explains Jeong, who says she’d like to collaborate with a fashion designer on Joseon-inspired headgear. “But we cannot simply continue in the traditional way. We must reinterpret old traditions to adapt, as times change.” jeongdahye.com